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Dark Glaze Faux Finish

Recently, I showed you how I faux finished two large cabinets in a white glaze. I got on a glazing roll and did some other furniture. This time, dark wood grain glaze. I have a set of end tables and lamps that we received as a wedding gift in 1989, and I decided it was time to update. Besides, the finish was in rough shape.
I think it looks a lot better on this picture that it did in person. The lamp has a brassy base that has become discolored. Again, making it look outdated.
There are faded and worn spots on top of this table.
I started off by priming everything in order to make sure the paint and glaze would stick without scraping right back off. I suggest a Zinsser or Kilz type of primer that is made for nonporous surfaces.
After the primer dried well, I coated both pieces (and the lamp base) with a base color. In this case, I chose a pecan colored latex satin paint because I wanted it to have reddish brown cast.
These doors are from another project, but they show what the base color looked like. Once the base coat dried, it was time to mix up the glaze. I used a DutchBoy glaze that had instructions for mixing 4 parts glaze with 1 part latex paint. I used a dark coffee colored satin latex paint for the glaze color. 

Once the glaze was mixed, I painted it on but made sure I worked only in small areas at a time so that it wouldn't begin to dry before I could wipe some off. Yes, I did mean to say wipe some off. Using a damp rag (a cotton cloth diaper type rag), I wiped off some of the glaze after I painted it on. 
If you wipe off too much, you can always add some back on with the brush. 
The wiping must be very light and gentle for this to work. Otherwise, you'll wipe too much off. Also, whenever possible, it's best to wipe with the grain since it will help add some new grain. 

The lighter areas on the finished door are the areas where I wiped off more with the damp rag.
Once the paint dried well, I coated the whole thing in a polyurethane to protect it and to bring out the shine. If you want to get rid of all brush stroke grooves, it's best to let everything dry well, then sand with a very find grain auto grit sand paper and do the poly coat. Then sand lightly again and coat with a Minwax paste finishing wax. This will give it the smoothest possible waterproof finish. While all of this isn't necessary, it does give your pieces a professional looking surface.

2 comments:

  1. So pretty! I can't believe how much better it looks. Thanks for linking up to Transform Tuesday! I can't wait to see what you have to link up next week. :)

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